Journey to Quatsino

 

I am sitting by the wood stove in the living room of the lodge at Quatsino, a spot about a 15 minute boat ride from Coal Harbour on the northern end of Vancouver Island. The day looks pleasant enough as night slowly gives way to day, but something is lurking just off the coast - a weather system that could bring 50-300 mm of rain in the next few days. 

Heather had booked a motel in North Vancouver, a minute's drive from getting off the Lions Gate Bridge. It was the perfect spot which allowed us to get on the road before 5:30 am to get to the ferry, a time when traffic was incredibly scant. 

We got to Nanaimo after a calming two hours on the boat and immediately darted to Lantzville to take the dogs (and ourselves) on a much needed forest walk before heading up Island. Groceries and lunch at Campbell River and we were on our way to Coal Harbour. The day was close to perfect with a mix of sun and cloud and perfect road conditions. The last time we had taken this highway, in January a couple of years ago, it was a far different experience with loads of snow and freshly fallen trees.

Coal Harbour is a small community about 15 minutes southwest of Port Hardy. We found our way to the government wharf and waiting for Brad who was coming over on the boat from Quatsino. We unloaded our car and carried everything down to the pier. It felt like we had way too much stuff.

"That's all you got?" comment Brad.

"Are you being serious?" I asked.

He wasn't joking. The last party of guests had way more than we did. It felt like a lot only because we had our painting equipment. 

Gear and dogs loaded, we zoomed around the bend and made our way to TGO Quatsino (tentative name), a redeveloped fishing lodge owned by a number of different families from back home in the Okotoks area. They took possession a couple of years ago and have done a remarkable job turning it into a destination lodge that can accommodate upwards of 15 guests. 

It's in the middle of nowhere but BC Hydro brought power over at some point. With Starlink internet, abundant power and good clean water, it has all the amenities for a first class experience. 

Brad took us out on the water after we unpacked to put down some prawn traps.

While we passed the time I took some pictures, Heather read her book, and Brad walked the beach searching for oysters. He found several and they were delicious. 

Our day was full and, I'm not going to lie, a little overwhelming. We had travelled a long distance and took in a lot of information. Wendy, Brad's mom, prepared a lovely meal which was fortifying and so appreciated. By the time it was finished we were ready for sleep.